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Vendée: A little-known paradise on the French Atlantic coast

The coast of France’s Vendée, known as the “Côte de Lumière”, stretches for about 250 kilometers and includes 140 kilometers of crystal clear sandy beaches. South of Nantes, north of Bourdeaux, the Vendée has all the landscapes you can imagine: hills and dunes, forests and meadows, rivers, marshes, vineyards and canals. And of course, that endless expanse of pristine beaches!

From town to country, chateau to bed and breakfast, there are plenty of luxuries to enjoy in the Vendée. Focusing (mostly) on the Vendée du Sud (the southern part of the region), here’s a quick guide: must-see experiences, specialty restaurants, and unique lodging options.

Les Jardins de William Christie

William Christie is known throughout France and America as a highly respected baroque scholar and conductor. His ensembles at Les Arts Florissant give more than 100 concerts a year in the most prestigious concert halls in the world.

While taking care of Les Arts Florissant, William Christie also fulfilled one of his dreams, explaining: “…in creating a unique and original garden around my 17th century manor house, which is now the annual setting of the festival Dan les Jardines de William Christie. , where we welcome music lovers from all over the world.”

Every 15 minutes, five bells ring, representing Christie’s best friends. They welcome visitors to the courtyard as if to say, “Come in. This is just the beginning of a magical garden tour.”

A visit to William Christie’s gardens is a must for any traveler living their manor house dream. Located in Thiré, traditional French gardens but with unique and unexpected plants and surroundings. From Alice in Wonderland hedges to antique French allées, French American Christie’s has curated a delightful secret garden of must-sees in the Vendée du Sud.

Mourat vineyards

Wine tasters, from novices to experts, will enjoy the Vendean vineyards! In Mareuil sur Lay Dissais visit the Mourat vineyards. Enjoy a guided tour of the cellars, or consider making your day with a bike tour and picnic, accompanied by Mourat wines, of course! The location of this romantic déjeuner is a mill in the middle of the vineyards.

Mourat is also known for its afternoon guided tastings of several of its classic varieties. Make sure you book in advance.

Vrignaud Distillery

The Vrignaud distillery is a distillery from the Mourat family. Several projects are still in development from this historic spirit producer.

Along with tours and tastings, expect hotel accommodation in what were once the estates stables and workshops to open in 2025. Sit by the pool with a Negroni made with red Vrignaud vermouth this summer.

Everything you need to plan your trip in 2024

Luçon

When you’re tired of fishing and need some culture or shopping, head to Luçon. Developed in the Middle Ages to be closer to the sea, the town is fortified by a large church and a harbour. Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption, has survived for centuries to be the only Vendée cathedral listed as a historical monument. Make time to hear the bells of the Gothic spire and walk through the 16th century cloister; you will appreciate the restorative effect of your visit.

Luçon has fun shopping options that aren’t as intimidating as Paris can be. It is also known for its city park, Jardin Dumaine. I can’t speak personally about this park, as I arrived in Luçon late at night (dangers of overcrowded travel), but it is listed as one of the best in France.

This mace

Restaurant Le Macis is a popular local restaurant in Sainte Hermine. The husband-and-wife team that founded and operated it (she’s the chef, you’re everything else) have created a homey, community-oriented restaurant with a quirky flair that will have you wanting to go back the next night. The food is French-Mediterranean, and the wine selection is amazing. Le Macis is also very good value, and while very French, it doesn’t fall back on typical French fare. (No pomme frites here.) I used to live nearby, and this was a convenient option, but go out of your way to enjoy this casual but fun French restaurant.

La Maison Desamy

La Maison Desamy has just three rooms, which can accommodate up to 35 people. It’s small, minimalist, clean, elegant, and boasts Michelin-starred chef Simon Bessonnet. The gastronomy lunch is surprising with each course. It is simply delicious and accompanied by a tour of the Mourat vineyard.

This Marine

Note that there are nine restaurants in the Vendée in the Michelin guide. La Marine is the best known, with three stars in 2023-2024. Alexandre Coullon is the decorated chef behind La Marine, borrowing inspiration from where he is—on the island of Noirmoutier. Chef Coullon says he has to thank the artisans and resources throughout the Vendée that contribute to the success of his establishment. Chef also has his wife and business partner Céline to thank for La Marine’s success. In 2024, Las Liste voted their “baby restaurant” the 3rd best in the world! (The island of Noirmouter is north of Les Sables d’Olonne and is not considered part of the Vendée du Sud.)

Orfraie domain

Guest house, bed and breakfast, inn, lodge, Domaine de l’Orfraie all rolled into one welcoming, luxury cottage-turned-country house. Accessed by roads between fields and farms Domain de l’Orfraie offers guest rooms with vaulted ceilings, soft king-size beds, exposed wooden beams, and all the amenities you need. A delicious family style breakfast with fresh jams, fruits, yogurts, pastries, cheeses, charcuteries, and more and more… served to your liking in the main “barn house” room. A vegetable garden and pool are on site, as well as two spacious family-style rooms.

Domaine de l’Orfraie is the dream child of a husband and wife. (It seemed like every place I visited in the Vendée was family-run!) Wife Sandrine, a former nurse, is the chef and is responsible for the divine breakfast, but is also available to serve a picnic lunch or dinner with advanced reservations.

Vendée’s Luxury Accommodations

En Vendée Tourism director Eléonore Fourre also recommends the Hôtel Parc du Landreau and the Château de la Barbinière for the region’s luxury accommodations. Shouldn’t it be a rule that anyone visiting France must go, or better yet, stay in a chateau?!

Château de la Barbinière is traditionally updated and chicly. It will fulfill your dream of a French romance novel, providing enough charm to make the first kiss. Their restaurant, l’Orangerie, is also considered the best in the Vendée, with chef Nicolas Pasquier’s beautifully presented food served under a glass roof.

Les Sables d’Olonne

The French region of Vendée also includes the beautiful 19th-century seaside town of Les Sables d’Olonne. As for where to stay there, check out Hotel Vertime. Across the sea, the Hotel Vertime is ideally located for access to the world-famous Vendée Globe race. The wonderful beaches of Les Sables d’Olonne and the beautiful neighborhoods deserve a few days to explore. Sip local Vendean wine, rent city bikes to explore the salt marshes outside the city, or just sit on the beach, watch the surfers, and read a book.

Cathie Arquilla

Cathie Arquilla is a travel writer from New York City. When she’s not traveling, she helps women look their best as a NYC fashion stylist.

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