Review: Persona, Stockholm, Sweden – Luxury Travel Blog

Our visit to Persona, located in Stockholm’s prestigious Östermalm neighborhood, began with a friendly wave from one of the staff as we were welcomed by the arched facade of the beautiful building at Torstenssonsgatan 11. From the moment we stepped inside, it was clear that this was not going to be just another meal, but a culinary journey that perfectly matched the place. surrounding. Since several members of the team trained their skills at Frantzén, one of the most famous and Michelin-starred restaurants in Sweden, we knew we might have a very special opportunity. In this review, I will accompany you on our evening so you can judge for yourself whether Persona really lives up to its prime in one of the most exclusive neighborhoods in Stockholm.

Food

Let’s start with the food. We had a seasonal tasting menu entitled ‘Summer with Monika’. We weren’t given a menu so each course came as a surprise to us, which was a good way of doing things, although I had asked for a copy (not to spoil the surprises, but for the purposes of this write-up. -top).

Each course is described with a few words preceded by slashes, even if the creation of the dishes is not as simple as the menu suggests, so we started to continue with “croustade / veal tartar / gribiche”, an interesting and very tasty take on the French classic, combined with white kombu.

Drawing its inspiration from South America, the “cajun tartelette / sweet corn / ranch dressing” was a flavorful Cajun tarte filled with a light and airy corn soufflé, drizzled with creamy ranch dressing. This comforting dish was not overly spicy but offered bold flavors to delight the palate.

The showstopper when it comes to appearance is “truffle choux / monbazillac / tête de moine” – a soft choux cake filled with rich, earthy preserved winter truffle, beautifully decorated with curls afrilly of Swiss cheese to give a wonderful visual contrast. A drizzle of Monbazillac, a sweet wine from the Périgord, added a sparkling sweetness to a dish that was as much a treat to the eye as it was to the tastebuds.

The French classic – crispy pommes dauphine – was given a creative twist in recognition of the very popular Swedish summer “pommes dauphine / truffle seaweed / matjessill” – designed to be eaten in one bite and served with seaweed truffle and matjessill ( Herring recorded in Sweden). This unique pairing of French techniques and Swedish flavors is presented over an eye-catching floral display, inspired by midsummer.

After this lesson, we were invited down to the winery. Instead of reading a wine list, diners are invited to discover what suits them best through conversation and exploring their likes and dislikes.

The basement is also where you can view the product used in the menu displayed on a frozen display.

While in the cellar, we were introduced to the “foie gras / macaron / cloudberry” which captures the roots of French and Swedish culinary traditions by marrying the French delicacy of foie gras with a unique, seasonal charm and Swedish sweet-tart. berries.

Back on top, “halibut / ajo blanco / sturgeon caviar / elderflower” featured tender halibut crudo served with a smooth and creamy ajo blanco (a traditional Spanish almond and garlic soup) with floral notes from elderflower vinegar and a touch luxurious Ossietta sturgeon caviar. from Poland. This dish proved to be one of the highlights of the evening and paired well with the halibut.

The “squid / XO / lumpfish roe / pine” was a new noodle dish, consisting of tender squid mixed with rich XO sauce and luxurious lumpfish meat. The addition of finger lime introduced a burst of citrus that contrasted nicely with the piney earthiness.

At Persona, they ensure that their scallops are well prepared and brought directly from Hitra, Norway, where they are harvested by hand, which goes a long way in explaining why the “scallop / vanilla / caviar / tiger bread / tarama”, which includes the ingredients three of the chef’s favourites, it was a resounding success. Norwegian scallops are considered some of the best in the world, due to the cold water they grow in, giving the unique delicacy and richness that comes from this dish.

It was at this point in the decision that we enjoyed schnapps and a lively rendition of a Swedish song from the wait staff, providing another nod to the Swedish midsummer, a time when Swedes typically drink schnapps and beer while feasting on crayfish near the västerbottenpaj (a .västerbotten cheese pie).

“västerbotten chawanmushi / crayfish / trout roe” is a soft egg custard topped with västerbotten cheese, accompanied by soft crayfish, sakkiwash trout roe, sea buckthorn oil and excellent crown dill. This dish represents the French chef’s artistic interpretation of Swedish traditions in a modern, Japanese way – the incredible creaminess and sweetness of the crayfish perfectly balancing the subtle richness of the trout roe.

The “chūtoro / foie gras / pepper kampot / black radish” that followed had the meltingly soft texture that is characteristic of this special cut of bluefin tuna, while the boiled black pepper sauce gave the dish an extra layer of depth and richness.

“Beef / chimichurri / shiso tempura” features the sweetest and most flavorful wagyu beef, combined with a bright and bold chimichurri sauce, topped with crispy shiso tempura. This beautiful combination of Latin American and Japanese flavors worked really well and made this a standout dish for me.

“tiramisu / truffle / px / gavotte” is Persona’s new version of the classic tiramisu, enhanced with a French touch. This modern interpretation features a glazed gavotte from Brittany, reminiscent of a soft crêpe, served with cold-pressed coffee ice cream made from sustainable Ethiopian coffee beans, and mascarpone cream with a crunchy almond praline and cookie crumble . Finishing off the dish are slivers of summer truffle and PX syrup from 1947, which provides a rich, sweet and aged aroma, which replaces the traditional wine found in the classic tiramisu. The result is a unique combination of flavors and texture, which is really saying something since I’m not a big fan of tiramisu!

Before our last lesson, there was a short break – a unique opportunity to engage our senses. We were given a red box filled with several small bottles containing a secret selection of spirits, encouraging us to explore aromas and flavors we might otherwise have ignored. Seeing and distinguishing each subtle note was more difficult than you might imagine!

Our final course, “cardamom croissant / tarte soufflé chocolate / cannelé,” was a wonderful combination of sweetness. We were given three small pieces; a cardamom croissant that represents a delightful fusion of French and Swedish pastry traditions, and a unique twist on the classic cardamom-scented croissant; a light and airy chocolate soufflé tart that was wonderfully rich and decadent; and canelé, a beloved classic from Bordeaux.

The cook

Chef Louis Cespedes brings a background that includes the prestigious Frantzén and Adam & Albin. He is a Frenchman who has trained his skills in some of the top kitchens in Sweden and at Persona, he presents a menu that highlights bold flavors with an artistic presentation, showing a deep respect for ingredients and a culinary philosophy focused on commitment to creativity and excellence.

Louis was sadly absent during our visit, but it was a pleasure to see his team at work in the open-plan kitchen that takes center stage in the restaurant, creating memorable dishes that touch guests long after they’ve left.

The ambience

Persona’s interior was designed by Erik Bratsberg, himself inspired by mid-century Italian design, creating a welcoming yet refined restaurant. The use of calming green hues and natural woods not only provides a sense of relaxation, but also somehow evokes a connection with nature and the changing seasons of Sweden. An intimate atmosphere with a pleasant sound of conversing diners and an eclectic mix of contemporary music, creating a relaxed ambiance that feels welcoming and not overwhelming.

Costs

The tasting menu is priced at 2,100 SEK (about $200 at current exchange rates).
Wine pairings from 1,600 SEK to ‘Dreams’ pairings (wines at the top of the wish list) for 7,500 SEK.

Final decision

At Persona, we were treated to a very special dining experience. Here, the menu mixes rich Nordic traditions with modern culinary innovations, balancing excellent presentation with delicate flavors. As our experience drew to a close, we were asked to smile for the camera. We didn’t think anything of it at the time, but, to our delight, we were given a Polaroid as we left—a great souvenir to remember a truly memorable evening.

Disclosure: Our tour is sponsored by Persona and our tour is kindly supported by Visit Stockholm.

Paul Johnson

Paul Johnson is the Editor of the Luxury Travel Blog and has worked in the travel industry for over 30 years. He is the winner of the Innovation in Travel ‘Best Travel Influencer’ award from WIRED magazine. In addition to other awards, the blog was also voted “one of the world’s best travel blogs” and “best in luxury” by The Telegraph.