Review: Highlights in Birka, Viking City, Stockholm Archipelago, Sweden

What I am about to describe is not just another luxury hotel review. But please read on and you will see that this is a luxury experience of a very different kind, but all the more special. Birka is actually the original Stockholm – a bustling Viking trading center on the island of Björkö in Lake Mälaren, west of present-day Stockholm. It was founded in the 8th century and served as one of the first urban centers in Scandinavia, playing an important role in the trade routes that connected the Viking lands with the rest of Europe, Byzantium and the Middle East.

Once a center for merchants who brought in goods such as furs, textiles, jewelry and rare items, today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that welcomes visitors to explore the site, learn more about Sweden’s deep Viking heritage and marvel at this symbol of the world’s early trade. And the most important thing is that you can stay all night in Birka, long after most of the tourists have left, to really enjoy the island’s historical treasures, nature and atmosphere, and have the place to yourself.

But first, how do you get there? Most visitors arrive on the M/S Victoria – operated by Strömma Kanalbolaget – which leaves Stockholm, and stops at various jetties along the way. Top tip: if you have a car, do as we did and drive to Jungfrusund in Ekerö, and board at the airport there. Parking in Stockholm is expensive, but in Jungfrusund you can park for free for up to two days. Another option is to drive to Lindby brygga, Adelsö and take a motor boat, or rent a boat or moor at the tourist harbor of Birka.

Acceptance

Anyone disembarking from the M/S Victoria in Birka is greeted by a wooden sign, leaning against an old wooden carriage, with the word ‘welcome’ in Viking runes, set against a beautiful backdrop of red buildings and green greenery.

You can visit Birka for a day, as many people do, or stay overnight and enjoy the glorious experience. We were there to do the latter, but we didn’t mention our arrival when we first arrived as we wanted to visit first. Tours run daily after the ferry arrives – one in English and one in Swedish.

Visit of Birka

If you are visiting Birka, I highly recommend taking a tour. You’ll still have plenty of time to explore the island at your leisure, but the tours – all included with your tour – will give you really valuable insights.

It takes about an hour and involves walking in various places, but nothing too strenuous. On the tour, presented by a person dressed in a traditional Viking costume, you will learn that the island is now much larger than it was due to the height of the ice in the area, but also about the excavations and burial chambers in the area. the island.

You will learn about how merchants came to Birka from all over Europe, and from other parts of the world, as excavations have uncovered Arabic silver, beads and pottery from Eastern Europe and special textiles from Asia. In return, the traders would receive Swedish goods such as iron, horns, hides and furs.

Birka controlled the trade routes in northern Scandinavia for about 200 years, but it ended when the inhabitants died or left the island, we are not sure which. About 5,000 cemeteries – mostly cremation cemeteries – exist on the island today and are a moving reminder of what was once a thriving community.

The tour ends near the Ansgar Monument, a cross that occupies the highest point on the island. It was built in honor of the Benedictine monk Ansgar, a missionary who was sent to Sweden in the 800s by Louis the Pious, emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, to bring Christianity to the country. Although his work may not have been entirely successful, a monument bearing his name was raised a thousand years later, in 1834, and it still stands today.

It’s worth a visit if only for the view of Lake Mälaren.

The glamping experience

Five bright tents, each with historical Viking names and sleeping 2 to 4 people, are a new addition to the island.

They are fenced off from most visitors to ensure a certain level of privacy, and are built just above the water’s edge.

The view from inside the glazed tent is peaceful and relaxing, and offers a wonderful vista across Lake Mälaren.

Each tent has a comfortable bed and hotel quality bedding, a lockable chest for your valuables, chairs and a table.

Shampoo, conditioner and shower gel are all provided, as are towels and lighting, and showers and toilets are available in the service building next to the glamping area. Or, if you’re feeling brave, take a dip in the refreshing waters that the Vikings used to bathe in at the small beach along the way.

About my sleep at night? As you know, I’ve been lucky enough to stay in many beautiful hotels around the world, but I’m not exaggerating when I say this might be the best night I’ve had in years! I’m not sure what it was… maybe it was because we went to bed early at nightfall, or maybe it was the cool nature of the water flowing on the shore outside, but I really slept, soundly and felt refreshed afterwards. in the morning.

Resources

There is much to see on the island. Next to the archaeological site and the aforementioned Ansgar monument, there is a museum and a shop with beautiful exhibitions and reconstructions showing life in Birka during the Viking Age. It also includes many interesting things that have been revealed on the site.

Across the museum are complete reconstructions of Viking-era buildings and boats, ancient Norse plants, and livestock, to give visitors a better understanding of what life was like in this early Swedish settlement. This authentic reconstruction is based on part of the information obtained during the archeology carried out on the island.

If you download Birka’s audio guide to your mobile phone, you can hear about Ulvar, a 10-year-old who lived in the village during the Viking Age, or about the reconstruction of houses.

There is even a church on the island, run by the Ekerö parish, which is open for visitors and for summer weddings and christenings. Named after a Christian missionary, the Ansgar Chapel was designed by architect Lars Israel Wahlman and built around 1930, a century after the Ansgar Memorial was erected.

Finally, be sure to visit Restaurant Särimner, near the boat docks, where you can sit inside or outside.

We had lunch there both days, enjoying locally produced food such as classic Swedish meatballs with pickled cucumber, lingonberries, potatoes and cream sauce, beetroot beef served with gray pea hummus, root vegetables and sauerkraut, or smoked salmon sauce and roasted root vegetables, spinach and pickled red onion. And the beer comes from local breweries.

A Viking dinner at Restaurant Särimner is included in the glamping, where you can enjoy Swedish dishes such as Classic Toast Skagen. This classic dish of shrimps in a creamy mayonnaise dressing seasoned with fresh dill and a squeeze of lemon is often enjoyed as part of midsummer celebrations or other festive occasions.

Entrees included dishes such as red wine-braised beef cheek with root vegetables and asparagus, Särimner fish and seafood casserole, and pan-fried glazed ribs, all cooked to perfection.

An espresso crème brûlée with fresh berries was a great way to end the evening as the sun set over Björkfjärden.

Location

Birka is located on the island of Björkö in Lake Mälaren, about 30 kilometers west of Stockholm.

Another nice touch

One of the most enjoyable parts of our stay was getting the breakfast basket delivered in the morning. The chef had asked us the night before what we liked in the way of tea, coffee, juice, rolls, yogurts, etc. and this was duly brought down on a quad bike the next morning. Also, the weather was kind to us so we were able to enjoy this outside.

Costs

A boat trip to Birka, which includes a round trip, access to the museum and a guided tour of the ancient sites, starts at 395 SEK (about $40 USD) per person.

The luxurious experience, which includes an overnight stay, Viking dinner and breakfast package, starts at 3790 SEK (approx. $400 USD) for a two-person tent, or 5700 SEK (approx. $600 USD) for a four-person tent. Sight-seeing visitors get a discounted boat trip with Strömma Kanalbolaget to and from Birka. The cruise is booked separately with a discount code found on the glamping confirmation.

The site is easily accessible to tourists in the warmer months of the year, with a regular ferry service departing from Stockholm from May to September.

The best beat

One of the really special things about viewing Birka is having the place to yourself after all the other tourists have left. And, although it’s hard to pick a highlight of our glorious experience as we loved every minute of it, the Viking dinner was truly lovely. There were only four of us and the chef there, and he produced a special meal for us, especially considering the many ingredients that have to be brought to the island. It was just peaceful and the weather was kind to us, meaning we could eat outside, looking out over the water as the sun set. Everything is magical!

Final decision

If you are in Stockholm, I wholeheartedly recommend a visit to Birka. It is a very special place, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and of great historical importance. But, to make your visit even more special and memorable, I would definitely recommend choosing a glamping experience to fully immerse yourself in the island’s historical heritage, nature and atmosphere. It will give you more time to get to know the site and allow you to better appreciate all it has to offer.

Disclosure: Our visit to Birka is sponsored by Strömma Kanalbolaget and our trip is kindly supported by Visit Stockholm.