My Suggested Black Forest Tour

In the land of the brothers Grimm, I expected dense forests, old medieval towns, and maybe a gingerbread house or two. But, it turns out, the tales of the Brothers Grimm were not from the Black Forest region of Germany (most of them are from the central part).

Why did I think they left there? I really don’t know. Maybe I got that from Disney?

And, in addition, due to extensive logging in the 1700s and 1800s, much of the land was converted to farms. Recently, thanks to the eco-friendly efforts of local people, the forest has slowly started to return to the area.

But, despite those dashed hopes (and perhaps because of them), my week-long visit to the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) was a highlight of my summer travels. It’s been on my bucket list forever, so I was glad I was able to scratch it off. I wish I had spent more time there.

This area, located in the German state of Baden-Württemberg, is famous for its forests (duh!), amazing hiking, huge cascading waterfalls, lush farmland, beautiful cuckoo clocks (they were invented here!), and historic medieval towns (only a few permanent of which were destroyed in World War II).

Given how big the region is – and how confusing many other blogs are to plan a route around it – I wanted to make an easy-to-follow plan for you.

It’s very easy to get to the Black Forest: You can fly to Frankfurt in the north or Zurich in the south and take a 1-2 hour train ride to whichever city you choose.

What’s the best one-week route to take?

If you had a week, I would do the route below, from Frankfurt (or reverse it if you are coming from Switzerland):

Heidelberg (2 days)

This university town has a lot to see, as well as many views and a short walk from the city centre. You will definitely want to visit the castle and its gardens, which offer an amazing view of the city. Be sure to take a guided tour, as it’s the only way to get inside the castle (the grounds are free though). You can also enter the university prison (used to house students who broke university rules until World War II), the Heidelberger Kunstverein art museum, and the theater. Finally, it’s a few steps to the mountain on the other side of the river.

Baden-Baden (2 days)

This spa town is famous for the hot springs that flow naturally here, a prominent attraction since the Romans discovered them. During the 18th century, the baths, as well as the casino (think of Monaco in miniature), were major attractions, attracting the rich and aristocratic of Europe. Now, Baden-Baden is a popular spa destination. There are two large baths in the city (the historic Friedrichsbad is nude, while the new Caracalla is not), as well as Hohenbaden Castle, a fun place at the top of the Hausberg mountain for sightseeing, and the Fabergé Museum. And of course, since this is the Black Forest, there is a lot of hiking.

Freiburg (2-3 days)

My favorite city in the region has a beautiful reconstructed center (most of it was destroyed during WWII), bächle (open streams) running through the city, amazing food scene, and affordable prices, thanks to the big university here. Other highlights include the cathedral, historic clocks, merchant’s hall, archaeological museum, and the Schlossberg (Castle Mountain), with its castle (hence the name), stunning views of the city and surroundings, and a number of beautiful beer gardens. .

I could use the town as a base for hiking nearby to the Ravenna Gorge and a visit to the Triberg, with its large waterfall and cuckoo clock. Ravenna Gorge is an easy half day hike depending on how much terrain you want to hike. You will wander through canyons, see waterfalls, and pass through fields.

Triberg is famous for its big waterfall and the biggest cuckoo clock. It takes a few hours to get there from Freiburg, but I will go as a day trip only, because, while the waterfall clock and the cuckoo clock are cool, I have nothing else to do in the city, and I get to spend a full night here. a bit boring.

What is a good two-week regional route?

If you had two weeks, I would add another day to Freiburg, as there is a lot to do, and you can take an extra day trip from there. Then I add the following:

Offenburg (1 day, after Baden-Baden)
Offenburg, whose name means “open place,” is famous for its medieval city wall, houses, and churches, although it began as a Roman settlement. It has many buildings that reflect the Baroque, Gothic and medieval styles. You can also visit the castle, the history museum, and the Black Forest Open Air Museum, which is a 40-minute drive from Offenburg.

Europa-Park (1 day, on the way from Offenburg to Freiburg)
This theme park is like a European Disneyland. It’s so much fun, so popular with the locals, so much better priced than Disney, and just a fun way to spend the day. You can stay in the park or in the nearby town of Rust.

Hiking around Titisee, Schluchsee, and Feldberg (2 days or more)

There are also many lakes and hikes in the area, so you can easily add as many nature days as you have time for. If you’re looking for water-based activities, Titisee is the lake town of the same name; Schluchsee is one of the most popular of the Germans. You can also stay in Feldberg on a multi-day trip. Indeed, wherever you go, you will find hiking trails.

How do you go?

While renting a car is the easiest way to get around the Black Forest, you can also travel by bus and train, which is what I did. One thing to remember is that although trains are frequent, buses tend to run at limited times, especially on Sundays, when most of Germany seems to take a day off. If you are not going to rent a car and plan to visit small towns, be sure to check train and bus schedules in advance.

The Black Forest was the highlight of my summer in Europe. It’s where I met a lot of people, had a lot of fun, and did a lot of hiking. I loved the vibe there. If you love beautiful cities, affordable travel destinations, great outdoors, and great food, the Black Forest is a region you should check out.

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